Some AR-15 flash suppressors can be really tight.  Using the right tools can make all the difference.  When removing a flash suppressor, I tape the barrel and and clamp it in wood nice and tight.  On the really tight one's, I use a heat gun (not flame) on the threads to break it loose.

I'm factory trained and certified by GLOCK, Inc. to work on their pistols.  I maintain most all of the parts for Gen-1, Gen-2 & Gen-3 Glocks as well as many for the Gen-4 & Gen-5 models.  I also have springs for your magazines.  This way, I can fix your gun in a week and I don't have to wait for shipping.  As a rule, I don't sell parts alone, I use them for repairs.  If you need a part, go to or

Imagine the amount of force it takes to break the cam pin of an AR-15 bolt.  These babies are hardened steel and tough.  I didn't start building AR systems until I'd been to school (trice).  I'm factory trained in the AR-15 system through Colt, Ruger and AGI.  I'm factory certified on the RUGER MINI-14/30 carbines and their AR-556 rifles.  I also work on Ruger MK-I/II/III and 22/45's.

This is cool.  A flat top rail system for the Ruger Mini 14 & 30 rifles.  The Ruger has always had a weak mounting system for your scope.  Now with this rail system by,  you can mount your scope, red dot, flashlight, laser or whatever on this rock solid mount.  It's sweet and for a flat $160.00, I can order one up and mount it on your Mini-14 or Mini 30 rifle, tax & shipping included.

The ambi thumb safety in a typical 1911 use a tongue & groove setup to link the two parts together.  This works, but it's weak.  EGW has come up with a better setup where it uses the tongue & groove setup, but then slides a tube over this link and anchors the right thumb safety with a sliding edge fitted into a grooved hammer pin.  Like all 1911 thumb safties, this one has to be fitted, but it's much stronger and engineered to last.

Is the action on your Remington 870 pump shotgun binding or getting hard to work?  Most likely you need to "tune" your action bars so they align with the receiver.  It could also be one or both of the feed latches have worked loose and need to be re-staked.  These issues are all addressed and adjusted in a simple armorer cleaning & service for $65.00.  I'm factory certified by Remington for this and other repairs to your shotgun.  I also work on Model 1100 & 11-87's.

Disassembling a gun can be a scary thing at times.  I've found dirt, grime, carbon, oil, leaves, hair, lizard lips, you name it.  One of the worst combinations is to mix your lubricants like Frog Lube with a petroleum base oil.  When heated, they can form a really sticky film and malfunction a gun in a heartbeat.  I found a Sig P226 where I had to soak it in solvent to even remove the firing pin.  On the guns you shoot a lot, it's a good idea to completely disassemble & clean them every year or every 3,500 rounds.  If you don't feel qualified to do this, take it to your friendly gunsmith (that's me).  On pistols & shotguns I'm proficient with, I generally perform this service for $45.  Some rifles may be a bit more.

I'm factory trained and certified by REMINGTON ARM to work on their SHOTGUNS (Model 870 / 1100 / 11-87).  I maintain most of the parts for the 870 plus many for the 1100 & 11-87.  This way, I can fix your gun in a week and I don't have to wait for shipping.  As a rule, I don't sell parts alone, I use them for repairs.  If you need a part, go to or

A Full Service Armorer for SIG-Sauer, GLOCK, S&W M&P-Bodyguard-Shield-Sigma, Springfield XD & 1911, Beretta 92-96,​Remington 870-1100-1187, ​Sig P320, Kimber 1911's, S&W Revolvers, Colt 1911's, Rock Island 1911's, AR-15, Ruger 10/22, Mini-14, Mini-30 ​Rifle, Ruger LCP / LC9 / SR Series, Benelli M-Series Shotguns and many more.

As strong and well made as Ruger Mini-14 parts are, they can still break from rough treatment or thousands of rounds fired.  This charging handle on the slide assembly of a Mini-14 broke after tens of thousands of rounds were fired through at a sheriff training range.

I'm factory trained and certified by SIG SAUER, Inc. to work on their P-Series pistols (P220, 225, 226, 228, 229, 230, 232, 238, 239, 938, 2202, etc.)  I'm also factory certified to work on the P320.  I maintain most of the parts for the P-Series guns and I have springs for your magazines.  This way, I can fix your gun in a week and I don't have to wait for shipping.  As a rule, I don't sell parts alone, I use them for repairs.  If you need a part, go to or your paragraph here.

All of the Ruger .22 Pistols (MK-I/II/III and the 22/45) are notoriously hard to disassemble and clean, but there is a solution.  Majestic Arms Speed Strip kits make maintenance a snap.  After installation, just remove the top bolt with a hex wrench and you can pull the bolt without having to disassemble the gun.  Now you can clean the darn thing without a hitch.  It's really the best solution for cleaning these excellent, accurate shooters.  Installation of these kits can be difficult, but that's where I come in.  I charge a flat $50.00 labor fee for installing these kits and I can order the kits so you don't get the wrong one.

The Ruger Mini-14 & 30 are excellent carbines.  Light, strong, easy to shoot, easy to carry, but accuracy has never been one of their strong points.  The newer generation starting with the 580 series went a long way to resolve this problem, but there's still room for improvement.  The "Mo-Rod" barrel stabilizer by Sunflower Outdoor Sports is one successful solution.  Using 2 clamps and a solid aluminum stabilizer rod, this system is designed to make your Mini-14 & 30 a sub-MOA rifle.  There are many other factors that impact the accuracy of a rifle such as ammo, optics, skill, but it's a step to at least stabilize the barrel and absorb excess heat.  I can order and install this unit like I did my own.

The P-Series Sig-Sauer pistols use a double-action, single-action trigger system which is strong and reliable.  One of the short coming I hear from some customers is how heavy the double action trigger is on the first pull.  Depending on how broken in your gun is, it's typically about 10-lbs.  Grayguns has come up with a solution where he sells a kit containing reduced power hammer & sear springs.  You have to be careful here, because if you reduce the strength of your hammer spring too much, you may end up with occasional light strikes on the primer making the gun unreliable.  Grayguns seems to have hit it just right.  This kit reduces the double-action trigger pull down to about 8.5 lbs, yet the gun stays reliable.  On a Sig trigger job, I use the Grayguns kit and then go one step further by polishing key areas in the action to make your trigger pull smooth and reliable.